The Epic of Robert Louis Stevenson
It all began in September 1878. A young, yet-unknown Scottish writer named Robert Louis Stevenson decided to escape his romantic sorrows by delving into the remote French mountains. By his side was his unlikely companion: Modestine, a gray donkey bought to carry his belongings and his sleeping bag (which was revolutionary for its time).
From this 12-day initiatory adventure between Le Monastier-sur-Gazeille and Saint-Jean-du-Gard, the famous book "Travels with a Donkey in the Cévennes" was born. Today, thousands of hikers walk in his footsteps to rediscover a slow, contemplative, and deeply rejuvenating pace.
Four Regions, a Thousand Faces
The strength of the GR 70 lies in its geological and scenic diversity. From North to South, hikers travel through natural regions with distinct identities:
🌋 Le Velay
A volcanic land of open horizons. Romanesque churches made of black basalt rise above the famous green lentil fields.
🌲 Le Gévaudan
A land of mysteries and dense forests (pines and beeches), world-famous for the legend of the Beast of Gévaudan.
⛰️ Mont Lozère
The highest point of the trail (1699m). Here, granite is king. Hikers navigate using montjoies, standing stones acting as guides.
🍂 The Cévennes
The land of schist. Steep trails lead to valleys with Mediterranean accents where the chestnut tree, a true "bread tree", has provided for locals for centuries.
The Itinerary: From Le Puy-en-Velay to Alès
The modern layout of the GR 70 has been slightly extended compared to the original journey. Here is the classic 15-day breakdown.
| Day | Departure ➔ Arrival | Distance | Details & Points of Interest |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Le Puy-en-Velay ➔ Le Monastier | 19 km | Leaving the Marian city, start of the high plateaus. |
| 2 | Le Monastier ➔ Goudet | 13 km | Spectacular descent towards the Loire River gorges. |
| 3 | Goudet ➔ Le Bouchet-St-Nicolas | 13 km | Ascent to the volcanic plateau of Velay. |
| 4 | Le Bouchet ➔ Pradelles | 21 km | Crossing the vast green lentil farmlands. |
| 5 | Pradelles ➔ Langogne | 7 km | Entering the Margeride region, gateway to the South. |
| 6 | Langogne ➔ Le Cheylard-l’Évêque | 16 km | Deep immersion into the national forests. |
| 7 | Le Cheylard ➔ La Bastide-Puylaurent | 26 km | Detour by the Notre-Dame-des-Neiges Abbey. |
| 8 | La Bastide ➔ Chasseradès | 12 km | Passing near the sources of the Allier and Chassezac rivers. |
| 9 | Chasseradès ➔ Le Bleymard | 17 km | Wild crossing of the Goulet Mountain. |
| 10 | Le Bleymard ➔ Le Pont-de-Montvert | 18 km | Mythical ascent of Mont Lozère using the Montjoies. |
| 11 | Le Pont-de-Montvert ➔ Florac | 28 km | Magnificent descent along the Tarnon valley. |
| 12 | Florac ➔ Cassagnas | 18 km | Walking on an old, shaded railway track. |
| 13 | Cassagnas ➔ St-Germain-de-Calberte | 15 km | Diving into the heart of the Cévennes National Park. |
| 14 | St-Germain ➔ Saint-Jean-du-Gard | 21 km | Challenging but stunning crossing of the Col de Saint-Pierre. |
| 15 | St-Jean-du-Gard ➔ Alès | 24 km | Final transition stage towards the plains and the city. |
To plan your stages, download GPS tracks, and find accommodations:
Visit GR-Infos.com (EN)🎒 Practical Information
When is the best time to go?
The best period is from mid-May to mid-October. Be aware: Mont Lozère reaches nearly 1700m. Snow patches can remain until May, and sudden summer thunderstorms are common.
What is the difficulty level?
The GR 70 is rated as medium. It presents no technical difficulties, but it requires a good physical condition due to its length (252 km) and cumulative elevation gain.
Where to sleep?
The trail is very well equipped: hiking lodges, bed and breakfasts, hotels, and campsites line the route. Booking in advance is essential.
🐴 Hiking with a Donkey
Walking the trail with a donkey, just like Stevenson did, is an unforgettable experience:
- Pace: A donkey walks at about 3 to 4 km/h. It sets a slow and steady rhythm for you to follow.
- Carrying: It can carry between 30 and 40 kg of luggage, greatly relieving your back.
- Logistics: Many professional rental companies operate on the GR 70. They provide the animal, the packsaddle, and ensure your accommodations have a suitable field.
Around the Stevenson Trail: Discover other GRs and GRPs
The Stevenson Trail (GR® 70) is a legendary route, but it is far from being the only natural treasure of the Massif Central and the Cévennes! Throughout your journey between Le Puy-en-Velay and Alès, you will cross or walk alongside many other long-distance hiking trails (GR) and regional trails (GRP).
Whether you want to create a custom loop, plan a variation, or find inspiration for your next adventure after walking in Modestine's footsteps, here are the main neighboring trails of the GR 70:
The GR® 7
From the Vosges to the Pyrenees. This stunning trail, following the watershed, crosses the Stevenson route at La Bastide-Puylaurent and near Mont Lozère.
Discover the routeThe GR® 65
Way of St. James - Via Podiensis. Just like the GR 70, this legendary path begins in the town of Le Puy-en-Velay. The routes share the bustling energy of the Haute-Loire.
Discover the routeThe GR® 700
Regordane Way. A thousand-year-old pilgrimage route starting in Le Puy-en-Velay. It crosses the Stevenson in the Lozère valleys, particularly around Langogne and La Bastide.
Discover the routeThe GR® 68
Tour of Mont Lozère. A magnificent 115 km loop that allows you to explore the massif in depth. It joins the Stevenson Trail in the Bleymard area and the Finiels peak.
Discover the routeThe GR® 72
From Col du Bez to Barre-des-Cévennes. A link between the Ardèche mountains and the Cévennes valleys, this trail crosses the GR 70 at key crossroads like Le Pont-de-Montvert.
Discover the routeThe GR® 44
From Les Vans to Champerboux. This trail connects Ardèche to Lozère and crosses the Cévennes from east to west. It intersects in the Mont Lozère and Goulet areas.
Discover the routeThe GR® 67
Tour of the Pays Cévenol. A 125 km loop winding through the Cévennes National Park. It flirts with the southern stages of the Stevenson Trail, in the heart of majestic schist valleys.
Discover the routeGRP Tour de la Margeride
Passing through northern Lozère, this wild trail explores vast forests and granite plateaus. It crisscrosses the GR 70 around Langogne and Cheylard-l'Évêque.
Discover the routeGRP Le Cévenol
This remarkable route offers a journey starting from La Bastide-Puylaurent and descending to Génolhac in the Gard, providing splendid southbound views.
Discover the routePortrait: Robert Louis Stevenson (1850-1894)
An Adventurer of the Mind
Born in Edinburgh into a family of lighthouse engineers, Stevenson soon abandoned civil engineering for writing. Despite weak lungs, he was gifted with boundless creative energy and spent his life seeking milder climates.
The Pioneer of Bivouacking
In 1878, during his crossing of the Cévennes, Stevenson showed astonishing modernity. He designed a waterproof sleeping bag prototype lined with wool, becoming one of the first enthusiasts of recreational wild camping.
Literary Heritage
- Treasure Island: The novel that shaped the modern mythology of piracy.
- Strange Case of Dr Jekyll and Mr Hyde: A brilliant exploration of human duality.
- Travels with a Donkey in the Cévennes: One of the first great modern travelogues.